(Only the SealCoat is de-waxed the other two they sell at retail are waxy and you don't want that under both water bornes and anything containing polyurethane) But if I wanted a darker color shellac, I'd need to use the flakes. I tend to also use Zinnser SealCoat for the dewaxed shellac since I use so much of it and it saves time from mixing my own from flakes. The BLO can be the cheap version from the 'borg.there is no point in spending a lot of money on it. Here's a somewhat blurry pic of one of the tables, for "inspiration" If you could give me a brief step-by-step I sure would appreciate it, sorry for being so "needy" So, in brief, you would apply Boiled Linseed oil, followed by de-waxed shellac, followed by Target EM6000? I'm pretty new at finishing & need specifics, is there a particular make & model of BLO & de-waxed shellac you'd recommend? Do you generally sand between the applications of these various coatings, and to what grit? What type of application do you suggest (I have no spray equipment at the moment, so, natural or synthetic brushes, rags, at which points etc.) Again, the tables are a walnut top on a hard maple base. That brings out the figure but insures that the finish will properly adhere to the workpiece.Jim - Thanks for the info. Of course, those of us who use water borne products (which typically add little color) also tend to use some BLO and seal with de-waxed shellac before top-coating. Last edited by Jim Becker 01-17-2010 at 3:42 PM.įor the record, I use Target Coatings EM6000 most of the time. Just be sure you lightly abrade the surface between coats if more than a few hours pass between them.poly doesn't like to stick to itself and needs a little "tooth" brought by some gentle 320 grit sanding between coats. That said, the product you bought is perfectly fine to use. When you look at the stocked shelves at the 'borg and read the ads, you are lead to believe it's the "best thing since sliced bread". The one thing that poly has going for it is.marketing. That brings out the figure but insures that the finish will properly adhere to the workpiece. For the record, I use Target Coatings EM6000 most of the time. There are much better water borne products available.you'll often see them mentioned in threads here. The only one I've used is Minwax Polycrylic and it's an ok finish and readily available. Water borne "poly" is simply an acrylic finish with a little polyurethane resin added. As to hardness, poly is NOT a hard finish to the contrary, it's a softer finish than non-poly varnish due to the abrasion resistance properties.which also means it's harder to polish to a particular sheen since that is an abrasive process. Either of these varnish types will bring out figure like any oil based finish will. For an oil based finish, a non-poly alkyd resin varnish (Pratt & Lambert #38, for example) or phenolic resin varnish (Waterlox, for example) would be my preference. Polyurethane is wonderful for floors because it was designed for increased abrasion resistance in that setting, but is not ideal for furniture. Now you have me concerned about the use of the oil-based poly to begin with! I would probably have preferred the water based, if for no other reason than easier clean up, but I want something that is going to bring out the grain, especially of the maple base pieces, while giving a sufficiently hard finish for the top of a relatively high traffic don't use any kind of "poly", for the most part.
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